So, it's been almost two weeks since my last update. I'd like to say it's because I've been so busy gallivanting over the Japanese countryside. Well, okay, that's actually half true. I have been busy with work which has taken me all over the Kansai region. As a nice side effect, I'm becoming extremely familiar with the local train lines. It turns out that in Sannomiya (read: downtown Kobe) there are actually four different rail companies running five rail lines (that I've found so far.) that includes 3 over-land commuter trains and 2 subway lines. It seems (judging from the last few weeks) that I can be expected to utilize all 5 lines in any given week. Intimacy with the system is necessary because some lines have stations with the same name in other cities (i.e. JR-Amagasaki, Hankyu-Amagasaki, Hanshin-Amagasaki.) But, that doesn't mean these stations are ANYWHERE near one another. So, if you're headed to a store near Hankyu-Amagasaki and you take the JR train, you're in for one heck of a walk (or going all the way back to Sannomiya, where the lines all intersect.)

As far as my usual wander-lust adventuring, I was pretty beat after Hiroshima, so the most exciting thing I did that week was laundry. This week I actually got off my arse on Tuesday and took the Ropeway from Shin-Kobe up the mountain there to visit the Kobe Herb-Park which has a great view of all of Kobe (and even Osaka and Kansai airport (across the bay) on a really clear day.)

Big dam and reservoir seen from ropeway car.

Foreground: Kobe Herb-Park green house.
Kobe, Port Island, and Kobe airport in the background.

My room, now lived in for almost a month.

Not much of an update I'll admit. Maybe the weather will be nice this week and I'll get over to Himeji (where there's a great Japansese castle) and/or to Suma (the closest public beach.)

Oh, that does reminds me of one point. It's been announced that the rainy-season has arrived in Japan. I can't say I've ever lived in a place with a rainy SEASON before. Not too surprising the forecast on any given day calls for a 40-90% chance of rain (also strange that in the States you almost never get a 90% chance of rain, it usually tops off around 70%... I wonder why...) But I digress.

I hope this post finds you in good health and good spirits. Until next time:

Jaa Mata Ne.

P.s. Happy Birthday to Me!

P.p.s. In other news, the former president of my former company has been arrested on a variety of charges related to the crash and burn of the company. What's that feeling? Faith being restored in "the system"? Yes, I think it is!

A week in Hiroshima

I sit here with the collected notes on my week in Hiroshima in front of my trying to think of what to write. To say it's not a normal Japanese city would be quite incorrect, but to say it isn't a totally unique place would be equally misleading.

Last Monday morning I caught the shinkansen 'Nozomi 7' out of Shin-kobe station at 9:59am. By 11:05am I was in 307km (190mi) away at Hiroshima station. Getting off the futuristic transport of the bullet train (It runs on electricity, it makes few stops, it's easy to board) I got on the great anachronism of public transport, the street car (all the speed of a bus, but on rails, and still has to obey traffic laws.)

I arrived at the school early, so I dropped off my bags and found my way over to the Peace Park (only two blocks from the school (more on the Peace Park later.)) After some lunch I went into work, taking a break part way through to check into my hotel (right around the corner from the school!) After work I was tired so I just went back to the hotel and crashed out.

Seriously, I've been in bigger airline bathrooms.

Ah, what a great view of Hiroshima.

This just set the "English Teacher" me right off. The sign on my door read:
"In case of fire broke out, or alarm signal were resound, we will broadcast an urgent announcement of emergency route, please calm dawn and follow the instructions of the hotell staff. The elevators cannot be used more."

Tuesday I got up and did the Peace Park properly (no, still gonna have to wait for details.) After working all afternoon I went to a yakitori (my favorite Japanese food) bar where I met two really cool Salary-men who I chatted with for a long time (Hurray for using my Japanese!!)

Wednesday was my day off so, on many a recommendation, I went to Miyajima. Miyajima is another one of those places you know, but you don't know you know it. Perhaps if I say "big Japanese arch in the water" (see picture)? In addition to a really famous shrine, Miyajima is home to a population of wild deer. This means two things: hungry deer preying on dumb people who feed them and the resulting loads of deer $#!+ everywhere. As with anyplace mildly famous in Japan, the requisite presence of EVERY SINGLE JAPANESE SCHOOL CHILD EVER was noted. On a lighter note there were lots of nice shrines. And although the day was rainy with low clouds, the scenery was wonderful.

Ferry to Miyajima (run by Japan Rail.)

Eh? Ring a bell?

This temple supposedly looks like it's floating at high tide.
It just sits in the muck at low tide.

Um, insert witty pagoda-related caption?

"Hey man, you got some 'people food'?"

I'm not sure if I'm more confused that it's addressed to the deer or that I need to pay special attention to my babies.

I kid you not, Miyajima is the birthplace of the rice-scoop.
Seen here: the world's largest rice-scoop.
(You can't make this stuff up.)

Thursday I didn't have to work until later so I took in Hiroshima Castle in the morning. The odd thing about Hiroshima castle is that, like the rest of the city, it's less than 60 years old (in fact, it's celebrating the 50th anniversary of it's reconstruction.) Also on the castle grounds are the foundation of the 4th army headquarters (no, really this will be covered in it's own section later.) Thursday night I went out for Okanomiyaki. What is that you ask? I think the best translation I can come up with is FOOD OF THE GODS! Take a crepe, put fried noodles on top, add liberal amounts of cabbage, add some more stuff (squid, spices, whatever tickles your fancy), cook it down into a pancake, and eat! I think this goes in the category of sashimi (raw fish) and other things that sound gross until you eat them.

Hiroshima castle is a good example of a "flat-land" castle, prominent in Japan's late castle building period. Aren't museums edu-taining!

Friday was also a late start so I trekked out to Hijiyama park in the morning. Hijiyama offers a nice vantage point to take in the whole Hiroshima skyline. The park is also home to the museum of contemporary art and the local manga (Japanese comics) library. After work I went back to the yakitori bar and the Salary-men from before surprised me with an impromptu "good-bye" party.

Saturday was all work followed by another shinkansen trip back home (not such a funny thing to think it's one of the SHORTER (time) commutes I have to do.)

Now the part you've probably been expecting since I said I was going to Hiroshima a week ago: thoughts on Hiroshima and the atomic bombing.

When I first went to the Peace Park it was raining. I think, particularly in the rain, the weigh of history becomes too much to bear. One thing I did notice on my first foray was that the "A-Bomb Dome" was a lot smaller than I had imagined it. Going back the next day (in full daylight) it's still a very power place to be. There are many monuments to those who died. The museum is really well done. Something that is a constant throughout the park is water (mostly in the form of fountains.) Evidently those not instantly killed in the blast, who were badly irradiated, became very thirsty. However upon drinking the tainted water present in the city many died immediately. Hiroshima is made up of 5 islands in 6 rivers. For a city built on water it's hard to to think that so many died with nothing but the word on their lips. It's certainly strange to visit a place and feel guilt for something so distant. I think I'll stop here. Long story short, it's not as depressing as I expected it would be... but it did make me stop and think.

Quintus-essential Hiroshima picture.

. . .

ANYWAYS, I had a great time in Hiroshima and would certainly visit again. Both city and inhabitants were really nice. Now to find the time, money, and/or and excuse to go back!

Jaa Mata Ne.

P.s. A note that will make the parents smile: I got a paycheck! I even looked in my account and found money there! Huzzah!

It occurs to me that I should probably post a little something this morning before I leave. You see, I may not have internet access in the hotel I'm staying in in Hiroshima!

I head out in an hour or so to catch the Shinkansen going west. This will (probably) be the longest morning commute I will (ever) have to do. (Well, it is only 75 minutes, but 300 kilometers!) Anyways, I'll be in Hiroshima for a week subbing at the school down there. Because it's for work my company is picking up the tab for my train ticket and my hotel.

I did really want to get down there, and now I get to do it on the company nickel! I'll post pictues and stories as is possible or when I get back. Until then:

Jaa Mata Ne.

Wow, so I just had to go read my last post to see what I wrote. Things have been very busy here the last few... well, weeks. As I said previously, last friday night I moved into my new apartment. This has led to a lot of running around the last few days changing my address with the city, my bank, and my cellphone company. Also, although this is a fully furnished apartment, a few "western" style kitchen items were needed (a BIG pot for making spaghetti, a glass that holds more than 1 liquid ounce, non-chopstick utensils, etc.) Add on top of that, I had my first two days at work. TGIT (thank goodness it's tuesday) and therefore my "weekend"!

Okay, now backtracking a week, I went to Kyoto last sunday. Mostly I walked around the same places that I did two and a half years prior with Sparks. The only place I couldn't find was the big shopping arcade in the middle of the city, but more on that later. Instead of my usual boring detail, I present some observations I wrote down while walking around.

• On a rainy day, riding into Kyoto, the mountains sneak up on you, hidden in the clouds.
• 
  
• Coming into Kyoto from the south, the landscape becomes very flat. Not just the terrain, but the buildings become low-slung. It is said that and building taller than the surrounding mountains will be destroyed by angry gods.
• 
  
• A great way to see a city is from it's river banks.
• 
  
• The crane is no fool, it doesn't wade into the deep water to fish. Rather it sits in the rapid and waits for the fish to jump.
• 
  
• Point of thought: Man feeds pigeons, pigeons attract hawks. Is man feeding hawks?

Kyoto is a day trip in the best sense. It takes about 90 minutes to get there, and most of the "big sites" can be seen in a day. Again this trip I failed to see the Kyoto Imperial palace, as it's evidently closed on sundays.

Move over Don Quixote penguin, there's a new favorite mascot in town!

Birds fishing.

Anyone who has read Memoirs of a Geisha will remember Gion.

The notably CLOSED Kyoto Imperial palace.

A week later (last sunday) I decided to take another walk around Kobe. It was a very nice day and again I walked down to Meriken park. This time I went up to the top of Kobe Port Tower and took some pictures.

Big. Metal. Fish.

Preserved piece of Meriken park from the '95 earthquake.

Kobe Port Tower with Kobe Maritime Museum in front.

Kobe Port Tower.

Looking East.

Looking Northeast.

Looking North.

Looking Northwest.

Saturday I had my first day of work. Ironically I was sent into Kyoto and taught at each of the two schools in the part of town where the big shopping arcade I was looking for the previous week is. Monday I started out at my "normal" school but was sent to a school two stops down the line later in the day. All this running around should settle down in a month or two as permanent classes become available. Classes so far have been fun. I like all the students, and the lesson plans are pretty idiot proof (on the teacher end.)

I'm liking the new apartment and my new roommate seems cool. The building is in a historic neighborhood up the hill from Sannomiya station (downtown Kobe.) There are lots of neat old western style homes (which I shall photograph later, as time permits.)

Front building entrance.

Room (messy already).

View from room balcony.

View from outside front door.

I think that's it for now. I'm sure I've forgotten some thing(s) but, oh well. Until next time:

Jaa Mata Ne.