A week in Hiroshima

I sit here with the collected notes on my week in Hiroshima in front of my trying to think of what to write. To say it's not a normal Japanese city would be quite incorrect, but to say it isn't a totally unique place would be equally misleading.

Last Monday morning I caught the shinkansen 'Nozomi 7' out of Shin-kobe station at 9:59am. By 11:05am I was in 307km (190mi) away at Hiroshima station. Getting off the futuristic transport of the bullet train (It runs on electricity, it makes few stops, it's easy to board) I got on the great anachronism of public transport, the street car (all the speed of a bus, but on rails, and still has to obey traffic laws.)

I arrived at the school early, so I dropped off my bags and found my way over to the Peace Park (only two blocks from the school (more on the Peace Park later.)) After some lunch I went into work, taking a break part way through to check into my hotel (right around the corner from the school!) After work I was tired so I just went back to the hotel and crashed out.

Seriously, I've been in bigger airline bathrooms.

Ah, what a great view of Hiroshima.

This just set the "English Teacher" me right off. The sign on my door read:
"In case of fire broke out, or alarm signal were resound, we will broadcast an urgent announcement of emergency route, please calm dawn and follow the instructions of the hotell staff. The elevators cannot be used more."

Tuesday I got up and did the Peace Park properly (no, still gonna have to wait for details.) After working all afternoon I went to a yakitori (my favorite Japanese food) bar where I met two really cool Salary-men who I chatted with for a long time (Hurray for using my Japanese!!)

Wednesday was my day off so, on many a recommendation, I went to Miyajima. Miyajima is another one of those places you know, but you don't know you know it. Perhaps if I say "big Japanese arch in the water" (see picture)? In addition to a really famous shrine, Miyajima is home to a population of wild deer. This means two things: hungry deer preying on dumb people who feed them and the resulting loads of deer $#!+ everywhere. As with anyplace mildly famous in Japan, the requisite presence of EVERY SINGLE JAPANESE SCHOOL CHILD EVER was noted. On a lighter note there were lots of nice shrines. And although the day was rainy with low clouds, the scenery was wonderful.

Ferry to Miyajima (run by Japan Rail.)

Eh? Ring a bell?

This temple supposedly looks like it's floating at high tide.
It just sits in the muck at low tide.

Um, insert witty pagoda-related caption?

"Hey man, you got some 'people food'?"

I'm not sure if I'm more confused that it's addressed to the deer or that I need to pay special attention to my babies.

I kid you not, Miyajima is the birthplace of the rice-scoop.
Seen here: the world's largest rice-scoop.
(You can't make this stuff up.)

Thursday I didn't have to work until later so I took in Hiroshima Castle in the morning. The odd thing about Hiroshima castle is that, like the rest of the city, it's less than 60 years old (in fact, it's celebrating the 50th anniversary of it's reconstruction.) Also on the castle grounds are the foundation of the 4th army headquarters (no, really this will be covered in it's own section later.) Thursday night I went out for Okanomiyaki. What is that you ask? I think the best translation I can come up with is FOOD OF THE GODS! Take a crepe, put fried noodles on top, add liberal amounts of cabbage, add some more stuff (squid, spices, whatever tickles your fancy), cook it down into a pancake, and eat! I think this goes in the category of sashimi (raw fish) and other things that sound gross until you eat them.

Hiroshima castle is a good example of a "flat-land" castle, prominent in Japan's late castle building period. Aren't museums edu-taining!

Friday was also a late start so I trekked out to Hijiyama park in the morning. Hijiyama offers a nice vantage point to take in the whole Hiroshima skyline. The park is also home to the museum of contemporary art and the local manga (Japanese comics) library. After work I went back to the yakitori bar and the Salary-men from before surprised me with an impromptu "good-bye" party.

Saturday was all work followed by another shinkansen trip back home (not such a funny thing to think it's one of the SHORTER (time) commutes I have to do.)

Now the part you've probably been expecting since I said I was going to Hiroshima a week ago: thoughts on Hiroshima and the atomic bombing.

When I first went to the Peace Park it was raining. I think, particularly in the rain, the weigh of history becomes too much to bear. One thing I did notice on my first foray was that the "A-Bomb Dome" was a lot smaller than I had imagined it. Going back the next day (in full daylight) it's still a very power place to be. There are many monuments to those who died. The museum is really well done. Something that is a constant throughout the park is water (mostly in the form of fountains.) Evidently those not instantly killed in the blast, who were badly irradiated, became very thirsty. However upon drinking the tainted water present in the city many died immediately. Hiroshima is made up of 5 islands in 6 rivers. For a city built on water it's hard to to think that so many died with nothing but the word on their lips. It's certainly strange to visit a place and feel guilt for something so distant. I think I'll stop here. Long story short, it's not as depressing as I expected it would be... but it did make me stop and think.

Quintus-essential Hiroshima picture.

. . .

ANYWAYS, I had a great time in Hiroshima and would certainly visit again. Both city and inhabitants were really nice. Now to find the time, money, and/or and excuse to go back!

Jaa Mata Ne.

P.s. A note that will make the parents smile: I got a paycheck! I even looked in my account and found money there! Huzzah!